alittle info about the car
1999 miata assuming its the base model, power windows ac etc.

2001 miata limited edition? thats what i was told, comes with the vvt head etc...


We swapped a 2001 miata nb2 with vvt into a 1999 miata, we used the 1999 wiring harness and ecu, all the sensors should be the same, relocated one of the valve cover sensor clip to the back of the valve cover. We used the 2001 coil pack and found the leads from the 1999 wire harness and rigged it up to the coil. here is what problems we've gotten ourselves into..

I don't have any 12v going to the coil, I know there is suppose to be 12v going to the black/white lead and negative for the black lead, and the the other lead is a signal going to the ecu, if I got my wire tracing correctly I spliced into a 4 pin connector with brown, brown/yellow, black, and black/white located right next to the thermostat, i believe those might be for the injectors as well?

1. There isn't any CEL that pops up when turning the ignition to the run position. I checked the 10A room fuse underneath the driver dash. I have 12v going to the blue/red 1A wire going into the ecu, checked all the fuses in the engine bay everything is good. The instrument cluster lights up, I get the battery indicator, odo, etc turns on I can see alittle movement on the gauges, I haven't check of the tach moves up and down while cranking it over.

Any thoughts on this ? I'm really stumped and I know if won't be using the vvt until I get the vvt tuner in the future, I just want the car to start. It cranks and cranks... But no spark :/

i couldve gotten with the stock head, coils packs, intake manifold, injectors but i would like to have the vvt tuner in the future, and swapping this was just for that reason, i am aware vvt is in the valve cover so it wont harm anything if not being used.

if you guys have any questions please ask away!

i also did some major research and heres where i got all of my info from.
https://sites.google.com/site/yourmi...-swap-ignition

http://m.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=70798

copied from BarbyCar in the LED gauge cluster thread....
Here is the pinout for the 2000 if that helps.

They are in the wiring diagram section C-a and C-b but for those without diagrams, here they are:
There are three connectors 1, 2 and 3. From the driver's seat 1 is on the left, 3 in the middle and 2 on the right. Each connector pinout starts at "a" and the blue circuit is labelled with an appropriately placed "a".

1a= BR/B - Fuel System (ECU and fuel gauge sender)
1b= BR/Y - Cruise Light (from cruise module)
1c= B/Y +12v Switched (from meter fuse)
1d= No wire or P/B - If applicable, ABS light (from ABS module)
1e= No wire or R/W - If applicable, Automatic O/D light (from transmission control module)
1f= L/R +12v Unswitched from Room fuse
1g= Not used
1h= W - DRL module (high beam light) - No wire if no DRL
1i= R/Y - Headlight relay (via LH headlight fuse) - note R if no DRL
1j= not used
1k= not used
1L= W/R - Door switch (interior lights)
1m= Y - Speed sensor for manual. No wire for automatic
1n= B/L - Ground
1o= not used
1p= V - Start signal - from ign switch on manual. B/R from transmission control module if auto

2a= V/W - Water temp (from temp sensor)
2b= L/W Seat belt (seat belt switch - driver's side reel)
2c thru 2j not used
2k= G/O - ECU (and data link connector - also transmission control module if auto)
2L= W/B - ECU and cruise control module
2m= O - Speed sensor for manual. B/W from transmission control module for auto
2n= not used - goes to empty lamp socket
2o= W/L - ECU - controls CEL
2p= not used

3a= G/B - Left turn signal
3b= BR/R - ECU
3c= L/Y - Brake fluid light (and DRL control module. If no DRL then also to parking brake switch)
3d= BR - Air Bag module (and data link connector)
3e= Y/R - Oil Pressure "gauge" switch
3f= L/O - Key reminder switch
3g= R/B - Instrument lights +12v from TNS relay
3h= GY/R - Instrument lights dimmer control to ground
3i= G/W - Right turn signal
3j= B - Ground (connects internally in cluster to high beam light if no DRL)


L=Blue, B=Black, BR=Brown, G=Green, GY=Grey, O=Orange, R=Red, W=White, Y=Yellow & V=Violet

 

Try asking this one on Miataturbo.net

That's where the best tech guys are located.

I'm not that familiar with the VVT setup but I think it uses a different trigger configuration for the ECU to know when to fire. I think it is a different number of teeth for greater accuracy for the VVT control purposes but would likely be telling the old ECU the wrong info.