price difference on 2003 year
#1
price difference on 2003 year
We have been looking at the 2003 miatas in the Dallas area. The prices are rampant.
Anyone have any idea what a 2003 with 80-100,000 miles should run
or some guidelines. We are seeing them all the way from 4500 to 13900
We are even open to a latter or earlier year if anyone has suggestions or what to look out for.
I am not sure if this is post is in the right section so please move if need be
Anyone have any idea what a 2003 with 80-100,000 miles should run
or some guidelines. We are seeing them all the way from 4500 to 13900
We are even open to a latter or earlier year if anyone has suggestions or what to look out for.
I am not sure if this is post is in the right section so please move if need be
#2
2001-2005 all have the variable valve timing engine unless it is a Mazdaspeed, which had the turbo.
I would look for the same things you always look for on a used car. I check the VIN tag on the dash and make sure it matches the VIN stamped on the firewall and the little VIN tags on every fender, door, trunk, and the hood. If they aren't there or don't match then the car has been in an accident or had panels replaced. I look for overspray and bolts that don't match (painted on left side but unpainted on right side) or bolts that have obvious signs of having been removed at some point, like the hood bolts. Ignore engine bolts that would have been removed for timing belt changes, unless you are searching to see if the belt has been changed.
Pull the engine dipstick and look for cleanliness of the oil, and look for crusty oil residue up near the top of the dipstick. Too much hardened residue on the stick is evidence of lack of frequent oil changes. Likewise, under the oil cap inside the valve cover the cam and head should be clean and at worst lightly golden, not covered in a dark reddish brown or carbon black.
Lay on the ground and look for missing screws and bolts under the front and rear bumper covers and the undertray that would indicate previous removal due to damage/shoddy repairwork. Look for evidence of repainting. Look for oil leaks under the engine and transmission, both at it's front and rear. If modifications have been made to the exhaust or other components, check for the quality of the work. Look for newer components that may have been recently replaced and inquire about the repairs. Ask for receipts for work performed, such as timing belt, water pump, and clutch to verify the work was done and mileage.
Check the condition of the tires and note if they are dry cracking or lacking tread depth. Look for uneven wear. Bounce each corner of the car to check the shocks for proper dampening and possible need of replacement.
Lift the trunk carpet and look for evidence of water intrusion. Check that the spare and jack are present. Check the condition of the top and it's seal around the glass.
I like to buy from individuals instead of used car dealers because you can get a better sense of how well they cared for the car and they tend not to cover up flaws as well. Beware of used car dealers posing as individuals on craigslist. Dealers have to make money off of you and individuals typically don't. Individuals are often more motivated to sell than dealers and are typically far worse at negotiating, giving you a better chance. Craigslist is often a good place to find an individual selling a good used car.
I would look for the same things you always look for on a used car. I check the VIN tag on the dash and make sure it matches the VIN stamped on the firewall and the little VIN tags on every fender, door, trunk, and the hood. If they aren't there or don't match then the car has been in an accident or had panels replaced. I look for overspray and bolts that don't match (painted on left side but unpainted on right side) or bolts that have obvious signs of having been removed at some point, like the hood bolts. Ignore engine bolts that would have been removed for timing belt changes, unless you are searching to see if the belt has been changed.
Pull the engine dipstick and look for cleanliness of the oil, and look for crusty oil residue up near the top of the dipstick. Too much hardened residue on the stick is evidence of lack of frequent oil changes. Likewise, under the oil cap inside the valve cover the cam and head should be clean and at worst lightly golden, not covered in a dark reddish brown or carbon black.
Lay on the ground and look for missing screws and bolts under the front and rear bumper covers and the undertray that would indicate previous removal due to damage/shoddy repairwork. Look for evidence of repainting. Look for oil leaks under the engine and transmission, both at it's front and rear. If modifications have been made to the exhaust or other components, check for the quality of the work. Look for newer components that may have been recently replaced and inquire about the repairs. Ask for receipts for work performed, such as timing belt, water pump, and clutch to verify the work was done and mileage.
Check the condition of the tires and note if they are dry cracking or lacking tread depth. Look for uneven wear. Bounce each corner of the car to check the shocks for proper dampening and possible need of replacement.
Lift the trunk carpet and look for evidence of water intrusion. Check that the spare and jack are present. Check the condition of the top and it's seal around the glass.
I like to buy from individuals instead of used car dealers because you can get a better sense of how well they cared for the car and they tend not to cover up flaws as well. Beware of used car dealers posing as individuals on craigslist. Dealers have to make money off of you and individuals typically don't. Individuals are often more motivated to sell than dealers and are typically far worse at negotiating, giving you a better chance. Craigslist is often a good place to find an individual selling a good used car.
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01-03-2012 05:11 AM