Installing seats is a pain.
#1
Installing seats is a pain.
I have been working all day on getting my seat adapters made, and boy has this been a project from hell. The driver's side of the miata is an absolute nightmare. I don't know how Mazda came up with this genius idea, but the stock mount points on the miata aren't actually centered. they are far from it, and on top of that, if you want to center your seat you will either need to CUT and reshape the transmission tunnel OR reuse the stock front mount point. What a ------- pain.
Atleast my Passenger will have a seat and 6-point...but who gives a ---- about the driver anyway righhhtt?
And the floor board is a waffle...So now i am having the predicament of flattening it out by hammering it down, or hammering it up, or just leaving it be and not worrying about it. Anyways, I need some rest so I can try to finish up tomorrow!
Atleast my Passenger will have a seat and 6-point...but who gives a ---- about the driver anyway righhhtt?
And the floor board is a waffle...So now i am having the predicament of flattening it out by hammering it down, or hammering it up, or just leaving it be and not worrying about it. Anyways, I need some rest so I can try to finish up tomorrow!
#2
What seats do you have. I have Momo Supercups in mine on stock rails and they bolt is reasonably. I am using NB seat rails though in my NA so you have to leave all the bolts a little loose until they are all threaded.
#3
Racetech RT-1000
I drilled out the rear feet. I have some metal filler and touch up paint, so when the job is all done I will cover up it up and all will look fine. I just want to get it all done for now, i am getting anxious about CMP, even though I have enough time, I really want to get my trans/diff oil done and then switch out mid-pipes for the silly inspection stuff next week. (Good god, run-on sentence please).
I drilled out the rear feet. I have some metal filler and touch up paint, so when the job is all done I will cover up it up and all will look fine. I just want to get it all done for now, i am getting anxious about CMP, even though I have enough time, I really want to get my trans/diff oil done and then switch out mid-pipes for the silly inspection stuff next week. (Good god, run-on sentence please).
#4
Done. Its a bit rough, but it will give me the chance to drive with it and fine tune it some. also, need to get in the passenger side harness and the backing plates for the driver's side. I am still slightly annoyed as I am sitting against the transmission tunnel and still 1/2" off center (don't ask me how I know, but I do). I think I will take it apart next weekend and see if I can hammer i out some more, but I am not too optimistic.
ohh, I also can't close my door with the lining on, so I think it will be time to gut my doors before CMP. hahaha, I love how weight saving just comes up on its own.
ohh, I also can't close my door with the lining on, so I think it will be time to gut my doors before CMP. hahaha, I love how weight saving just comes up on its own.
#5
I cut out the rear humps on the driver's side with a cut off wheel. I used 1" flat bar from the front mount holes to come back to a cross piece that was then bolted to the seat bottom towards the front. The rear of the seat is bolted directly through the floor. This gives it a little rake, which I like. You can see in the pic how the bottom is made on two planes. It is bolted in at exacly that angle in my car. I had to get low to get under the broomstick with my helmeted head because I am 6'1". The Kirkeys are very comfy and the width is no problem in the Miata. I never would think a seat that looks as hard and flat as it does would be so comfortable to sit in, but the molded padding that comes with it is really nice in all the right ways. Between the high sides of the seat and the 5-point harness you are not going anywhere.
Last edited by sixshooter; 10-04-2011 at 10:18 AM.
#6
yea, I was thinking about the kirkeys too. but i was dissuaded by people saying they were uncomfortable. take some pictures of your mounting please, I would like to see how it looks especially the area at the transmission tunnel.
I did not do the 1" bar, I cut out two pieces of steel (4"x1.75"x.125") and bent them, then bolted them to the seat bracket. As a matter of fact, the 1" bar wouldn't work as I would have to mount the front at an angle for me to get the bolt holes to all line up on a 1" plane. maybe its NB vs. NA difference? (I already tried a 1.25" flat bar and it was way too small)
I did not do the 1" bar, I cut out two pieces of steel (4"x1.75"x.125") and bent them, then bolted them to the seat bracket. As a matter of fact, the 1" bar wouldn't work as I would have to mount the front at an angle for me to get the bolt holes to all line up on a 1" plane. maybe its NB vs. NA difference? (I already tried a 1.25" flat bar and it was way too small)
#8
Hi guys.
I dont know about the US but this how we have to mount seats to make the mounts legal. I know the height isnt an issue in these photos but all the theory is the same.
To get a lower mount you just machine up a theaded insert and weld that in the RHS. That way you can weld the RHS to the tunnel and modified sides.
It also legal here to bolt the frame straight through the floor as long as you have a 75mm x 50mm x 3mm plate with M8 or stronger bolt
Full build thread here.
http://www.excelrally.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=318
With my Subaru the nav seat wouldnt fit so we used the same method but welded mounts straight to a hammer modified tunnel.
Justin
I dont know about the US but this how we have to mount seats to make the mounts legal. I know the height isnt an issue in these photos but all the theory is the same.
To get a lower mount you just machine up a theaded insert and weld that in the RHS. That way you can weld the RHS to the tunnel and modified sides.
It also legal here to bolt the frame straight through the floor as long as you have a 75mm x 50mm x 3mm plate with M8 or stronger bolt
Full build thread here.
http://www.excelrally.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=318
With my Subaru the nav seat wouldnt fit so we used the same method but welded mounts straight to a hammer modified tunnel.
Justin
#9
its pretty much the same here. you can use stock mount positions, or bolt to the floor using 7/16 (~11mm) and a backing plate. I don't remember size but I think it depends on the organization.
In my case, I am bolting the two rear points to the floor pan, so I will be using a 4"x4" backing plate on each. thats much larger than 75mm x 50mm, but its SCCA requirements for spec. miata.
I don't mind overbuilding this at the moment, as I am not looking for every inch of performance available and I know there is more to be gained in other areas than shaving off 1" of steel.
Good stuff though, do you mind if we compile these pictures (along with mine and sixshooter) into a "seat mounting share thread"?
In my case, I am bolting the two rear points to the floor pan, so I will be using a 4"x4" backing plate on each. thats much larger than 75mm x 50mm, but its SCCA requirements for spec. miata.
I don't mind overbuilding this at the moment, as I am not looking for every inch of performance available and I know there is more to be gained in other areas than shaving off 1" of steel.
Good stuff though, do you mind if we compile these pictures (along with mine and sixshooter) into a "seat mounting share thread"?