Exterior Ideas: Radiator/Cooling Ducts
#1
Ideas: Radiator/Cooling Ducts
Ok, so for all you guys out there with ducting, post up pictures (more details the better), lets try to follow a format and maybe we can help some people out with their setups:
Materials Used:
24x48 " Aluminum sheet (Lowes)
M-D Building 3/4" FOAM Weather Stripping (Lowes)
3/4" backer rod (Doesn't work well)
1/4" Silicone weather stripping (doesn't stick very well, could be the brand though)
Instructions
1) I removed the front air straightener and the radiator while I took my measurements.
2) Made a marking on the aluminum sheet to fit the front 3 screws at the bottom of the miata "mouth"
3) I hammered in my condenser mounting tabs (no A/C here).
4) Took measurements of the inside to split my ducting into 3 for future plans and then made plans for sealing the sides.
5) Cut, cut, cut. I used Tin snips as I ran out of cutting wheels for the dremel. Otherwise, the dremel is a good idea if you can got a steady hand.
6) Using weather stripping on the radiator sides and bottom, and fitted everything. checked for gaps, I have quiet a few uptop but I cannot address them until my intake idea is completed.
Pictures:
Here some rough pics. I will post more once I update the "design" or if their is a lot of interest. I also can't seem to get a decent side view without removing the bug catcher or the radiator...
Materials Used:
24x48 " Aluminum sheet (Lowes)
M-D Building 3/4" FOAM Weather Stripping (Lowes)
3/4" backer rod (Doesn't work well)
1/4" Silicone weather stripping (doesn't stick very well, could be the brand though)
Instructions
1) I removed the front air straightener and the radiator while I took my measurements.
2) Made a marking on the aluminum sheet to fit the front 3 screws at the bottom of the miata "mouth"
3) I hammered in my condenser mounting tabs (no A/C here).
4) Took measurements of the inside to split my ducting into 3 for future plans and then made plans for sealing the sides.
5) Cut, cut, cut. I used Tin snips as I ran out of cutting wheels for the dremel. Otherwise, the dremel is a good idea if you can got a steady hand.
6) Using weather stripping on the radiator sides and bottom, and fitted everything. checked for gaps, I have quiet a few uptop but I cannot address them until my intake idea is completed.
Pictures:
Here some rough pics. I will post more once I update the "design" or if their is a lot of interest. I also can't seem to get a decent side view without removing the bug catcher or the radiator...
#4
#5
This is something I need to do on turbocar. On my ScanGauge I'll run around 220*, in 100* weather with AC on. I have no under tray. I have a new Koyo 37mm to install at same time. This is one of the reasons I've not driven car much this summer. When I pull front bumper to do it I'll post some pics. First chance I get I'll post the ducting on the Monster car. They did a real good job on it. David
#6
We have two miatas both are 96 models no mods and this texas heat can be unbearable. One has heated up twice this year. The first time was a cooling fan stopped working and the second was yesterday when it sprouted a leak in the green/brown colored radiator.
If you have a good radiator,and good fans and hoses with no mods then the factory cooling will work just fine in any type of heat or cold.
We have been driving 3-400 miles on a weekend and it has not over heated at all.
The other one did heat until I went back to basics and replaced the radiator,I did not have the bottom cover on it,had a lisc plate stuck in front and it has not overheated one time since the rad install.
I can't believe Mazda would still be able to sell one car if the cooling system or the car had to be modified to keep it cool
I do agree if you make any mods at all then it may be a complete different story but staying stock just take care of what is on it,and if it starts over heating find out why something is going bad on the car
If you have a good radiator,and good fans and hoses with no mods then the factory cooling will work just fine in any type of heat or cold.
We have been driving 3-400 miles on a weekend and it has not over heated at all.
The other one did heat until I went back to basics and replaced the radiator,I did not have the bottom cover on it,had a lisc plate stuck in front and it has not overheated one time since the rad install.
I can't believe Mazda would still be able to sell one car if the cooling system or the car had to be modified to keep it cool
I do agree if you make any mods at all then it may be a complete different story but staying stock just take care of what is on it,and if it starts over heating find out why something is going bad on the car
#7
This is something I need to do on turbocar. On my ScanGauge I'll run around 220*, in 100* weather with AC on. I have no under tray. I have a new Koyo 37mm to install at same time. This is one of the reasons I've not driven car much this summer. When I pull front bumper to do it I'll post some pics. First chance I get I'll post the ducting on the Monster car. They did a real good job on it. David
We have two miatas both are 96 models no mods and this texas heat can be unbearable. One has heated up twice this year. The first time was a cooling fan stopped working and the second was yesterday when it sprouted a leak in the green/brown colored radiator.
If you have a good radiator,and good fans and hoses with no mods then the factory cooling will work just fine in any type of heat or cold.
We have been driving 3-400 miles on a weekend and it has not over heated at all.
The other one did heat until I went back to basics and replaced the radiator,I did not have the bottom cover on it,had a lisc plate stuck in front and it has not overheated one time since the rad install.
I can't believe Mazda would still be able to sell one car if the cooling system or the car had to be modified to keep it cool
I do agree if you make any mods at all then it may be a complete different story but staying stock just take care of what is on it,and if it starts over heating find out why something is going bad on the car
If you have a good radiator,and good fans and hoses with no mods then the factory cooling will work just fine in any type of heat or cold.
We have been driving 3-400 miles on a weekend and it has not over heated at all.
The other one did heat until I went back to basics and replaced the radiator,I did not have the bottom cover on it,had a lisc plate stuck in front and it has not overheated one time since the rad install.
I can't believe Mazda would still be able to sell one car if the cooling system or the car had to be modified to keep it cool
I do agree if you make any mods at all then it may be a complete different story but staying stock just take care of what is on it,and if it starts over heating find out why something is going bad on the car
#10
I was 12, my brother was running NHRA stock ( set strip record ), and my father taught me how to do brakes. I watch carb rebuilding, didn't master that until 17. I was building engines by 17, as brother got back from SeAsia and worked in machine shop. I never could or was taught how to grind a crank. Still baffles the hell out of me.